Epoisses is not well known. For those of you who know what washed rind cheese is, this is one of the greats. For those of you who do not, this is a class of cheese that is strong. So do not serve it as the only choice for the uninitiated. Better to serve at least the classic three choices, one sheep, one goat and this for the cow. You know, half a Noah.
If you are trying it for yourself for the first time, here are a couple of points:
take most of the top crust off, gently with a sharp paring knife and fork. Not deep. The crust is soft.
let the cheese come to room temperature (this is a creamy almost soupy cheese and looses most of its taste if cold and firm)
serve with a small spoon, no bigger than an espresso spoon. (caviar spoons work. in a pinch, the handle of an ice cream bar works. The point is not to have big glops extracted)
good on bread. Bath Oliver crackers are good. Water crackers or cream crackers.
Wine is essential. The first time I had this cheese, I had a shmear on a piece of bread. Wow, the cheese was extraordinary. Then I had a mouth wash of white wine. Then the cheese opened into the transformational moment of perfection. True Sartori. So always serve with cool white wine, The fat and alcohol mate to explode all the hidden flavors.
My choice is a Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. But since I cannot pay for my choice, I am reduced to mere extacy with a good chalky, flinty Frascati. For American wines, the new style of lean, un-oaked chardonnay works. You might better reach for a Fume Blanc otherwise.
If you are interested but not quite comfortable, then go for the plain Epoisses, not the creamy. It is a gateway cheese, as we pushers say.
Finally, this is a fair price to pay.
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